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Sunday, March 3, 2024

HYALURONIC ACID: ANTI-AGING ACTIVE INGREDIENT for AGING SIGNS

Anti-aging active ingredient, moisturizing active ingredient, hyaluronic acid is often at the heart of dermo-cosmetic treatment formulations. Discover the expertise of Emma Gardette, dermatologist on this active ingredient, its use in treatments and serums but also in the context of cosmetic surgery.

What is the role of hyaluronic acid in the skin?

Hyaluronic acid (or “Sodium hyaluronate”) is a constitutional element of the extracellular matrix present in large quantities in the dermis, the second constituent layer of the skin, and to a lesser extent in the epidermis, the superficial and visible layer. Skin. The body produces about five grams per day for the renewal of skin tissue. It is a naturally occurring humectant and moisturizer in the body with a viscous and transparent texture. Thanks to its exceptional hygroscopic properties, it acts like a natural sponge to attract and retain water. Capable of retaining up to a thousand times its weight in water, hyaluronic acid fills the inter-cellular spaces within the connective tissue between the fibers of collagen and elastin. It thus contributes to the hydration but also to the firmness of the skin, its volume, its tonicity and helps to fight against the external aggressions causing the premature aging of the cells. For all these reasons, hyaluronic acid is the reference molecule in cosmetics, to fight against the visible signs of aging.

However, this molecule degrades over time… It has a short lifespan, and its production decreases from decade to decade. Indeed, 30 to 50% of hyaluronic acid molecules degrade in 24 hours.

In addition, from the age of 20, the amount of hyaluronic acid decreases in the body. The synthesis is then slower, of lower quality and less abundant. This phenomenon contributes to sagging skin and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and intensifies after the age of 40.The levels of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the dermis and epidermis gradually decline to such an extent that, around the age of 50, there is a loss of collagen up to 50%. The decline combined with the rapid natural degradation of hyaluronic acid contributes to the appearance of the signs of aging: fine lines and wrinkles, uneven skin texture, loss of tone and loss of volume.

In view of these progressive degradations, we know that 25-year-old skin will not have the same needs as 40-year-old skin or mature skin. It is essential to adopt a care routine with adequate formulas, adapted to your needs and skin type.

How is hyaluronic acid introduced into cosmetics?

Synthesized from bacteria in the laboratory, the hyaluronic acid that we know in cosmetic care is a product of biotechnology. To correct the signs of aging, the topical application of hyaluronic acid care is very effective, especially since, naturally present in the skin, this active ingredient is completely bio-compatible. The contribution of hyaluronic acid is ideal in a serum formula because it can convey the active ingredients in depth compared to a moisturizer. Their corrective actions will target and respond to different skin problems. They are therefore perfectly suited for a layering application… Thus, integrated into a treatment, hyaluronic acid will, depending on its molecular weight, penetrate the skin and act in several ways. To preserve the health of your skin, opt for a cosmetic with hyaluronic acid in the 3 molecular forms for high long-lasting effectiveness. High molecular weight

Hyaluronic acid is a large molecule whose mission is to penetrate the first strata of the epidermis in order to maintain a good level of hydration in the tissues. In cosmetics, it is used to fight against all phenomena of dehydration and to reduce the first wrinkles and fine lines.

•             Is a micro-molecule. Its small size allows it to penetrate deep into the epidermis, boost collagen production and thus prevent sagging skin. It promotes the uptake of water in the tissues.

•             Allows a gradual release for a lasting action in the deep layers of the epidermis. It thus guarantees optimal bioavailability.

Thus, the concentration of hyaluronic acid and its bioavailability in the skin are key to guaranteeing high efficiency. Cosmetics based on hyaluronic acid are recommended, whatever the age to help fight against skin aging and transform the appearance of visible signs of aging for younger skin. Morning and evening, after a complete cleansing of the skin, the application of a serum with hyaluronic acid will act in the epidermis. It will then be necessary to apply a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid to reinforce the corrective action and the cutaneous barrier.

How is hyaluronic acid introduced into cosmetics?

Synthesized from bacteria in the laboratory, the hyaluronic acid that we know in cosmetic care is a product of biotechnology. To correct the signs of aging, the topical application of hyaluronic acid care is very effective, especially since, naturally present in the skin, this active ingredient is completely bio-compatible. The contribution of hyaluronic acid is ideal in a serum formula because it can convey the active ingredients in depth compared to a moisturizer. Their corrective actions will target and respond to different skin problems. They are therefore perfectly suited for a layering application.. Thus, integrated into a treatment, hyaluronic acid will, depending on its molecular weight, penetrate the skin and act in several ways. To preserve the health of your skin, opt for a cosmetic with hyaluronic acid in the 3 molecular forms for high long-lasting effectiveness. High molecular weight

Hyaluronic acid is a large molecule whose mission is to penetrate the first strata of the epidermis in order to maintain a good level of hydration in the tissues. In cosmetics, it is used to fight against all phenomena of dehydration and to reduce the first wrinkles and fine lines.

•             Is a micro-molecule. Its small size allows it to penetrate deep into the epidermis, boost collagen production and thus prevent sagging skin. It promotes the uptake of water in the tissues.

•             Allows a gradual release for a lasting action in the deep layers of the epidermis. It thus guarantees optimal bioavailability.

Thus, the concentration of hyaluronic acid and its bioavailability in the skin are key to guaranteeing high efficiency. Cosmetics based on hyaluronic acid are recommended, whatever the age to help fight against skin aging and transform the appearance of visible signs of aging for younger skin. Morning and evening, after a complete cleansing of the skin, the application of a serum with hyaluronic acid will act in the epidermis. It will then be necessary to apply a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid to reinforce the corrective action and the cutaneous barrier.

What is the interest of hyaluronic acid in aesthetic medicine?

The injection of hyaluronic acid is the treatment of choice in aesthetic medicine: it is indeed the first anti-aging aesthetic act, before dermatological peels and pulsed light.

Indeed, due to its moisturizing and volumizing properties, hyaluronic acid has several properties:

•             It is used as a filler, to treat nasolabial folds, bitterness folds and wrinkles in a very natural way. It also allows you to redefine the lips which tend to become thinner and wrinkle around the edges.

•             It targets loss of volume and sagging, to restore volume and tone to the skin.

•             It is also used to hydrate the skin in depth: it involves multiple small injections into the dermis, where wrinkles form. Because deeply hydrated skin is skin that ages well and wrinkles less.

>The use of fillers in the form of injectable includes various forms of hyaluronic acid. Cross- linked hyaluronic acid, for example, is a series of molecules joined together in such a way that they form a mesh structure, and this impacts its density and durability. Thus, the high degree of cross-linking ensures the volumizing character of the product. A weakly cross-linked product will be low in volume but very hydrating. The choice of injected hyaluronic acid will be made according to the type of corrections to be made:

•             Weakly concentrated and cross-linked hyaluronic acid: for fine lines, fine wrinkles around the lips, crow’s feet wrinkles (around the eyes)

•             Concentrated hyaluronic acid: for nasolabial folds, folds of bitterness, lip line, cheek wrinkles, valley of tears, scars…

•             Highly cross-linked and concentrated hyaluronic acid: for deep folds, remodeling certain volumes of the face (cheekbones, hollow temples, cheeks, etc.).

Several factors have an influence on the duration of the results and the volumizing effect: the degree of elasticity and viscosity first of all (the higher the degree of cross-linking, the longer the effect will last between six to fifteen months depending on the cases) and then the size of the particles, which makes it possible to modify the dispersibility of the product in the different layers of the skin (the larger the size of the particle, the greater the volumizing effect).

Due to cross-linking, hyaluronic acid is generally resistant to degradation by natural hyaluronidase, but it degrades gradually over time and is therefore considered a “biodegradable” treatment option.

You should know that a treatment pre or post injection of hyaluronic acid can potentiate the effects and effectiveness of the act and accentuate the visible results on your skin.

Indeed, before the aesthetic act, it is beneficial to apply a repairing, moisturizing or anti-inflammatory serum. A serum concentrated in Vitamin c serum and hyaluronic acid, for example, is a very good way to prepare your skin for the procedure.

During the period following the clinic session, the epidermis can be very dry. On the other hand, as the skin is often inflamed, irritated and sensitive, it is recommended to apply an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing serum, such as a serum with hyaluronic acid.

Finally, since hyaluronic acid injections are naturally absorbed by the body, it is advisable to supplement them with a care routine formulated with hyaluronic acid serum.

To conclude, in order to potentiate the results of a filler injection, the use of a hyaluronic acid serum must meet specific formulation criteria: a high concentration associated with a synergy of anti-aging active ingredients to boost the rate of hyaluronic acid naturally present in the skin and prevent its degradation.

Jaxson henry
Jaxson henry
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